Kenya: First Safari
Safari. What do you think of when you hear that word? Perhaps it’s similar to what came to mind for my husband and I as we were planning this trip. Prior to the actual experience, we often envisioned vast landscapes, animals roaming freely, and I suppose, a general sense of adventure. Having been on the safari, I can only say that on a very basic level, all of that is true.
But our simple visions don’t come anywhere even close to the actual experience. It absolutely exceeded all our wildest expectations! I don’t think I will ever be able to describe it to give it true justice, as I’ll likely run out of words or won’t be able to find the right ones to capture it all. But I’m sure going to give it a go!
I’ve decided to present the highlights of my safari as a list of “firsts,” as there were so many experiences that were completely new, unexpected and unimagined. As you read on, think of those amazing feelings that literally well up in you when you’ve tried something new and absolutely wonderful for the first time: overwhelming and inexplicable awe, joy, surprise, wonder, respect, astonishment, amazement, bewilderment (thank you, thesaurus, for these awesome words) and sometimes, a bit of fear and apprehension as well (in sort of a good way). Or more simply, when all you can manage to say is: “Wow!” or “Woohoo!” or “OMG!”. Or if you’re like me, your mouth just hangs open as you stare in wonderment as you can’t quite believe what you’re seeing. That’s the range of emotions I’m trying to convey as I describe our safari firsts.
THE ARRIVAL
I feel our arrival in Kenya deserves a mention as it was just the perfect way to start off our trip. We had been told that someone would meet us when we landed in Nairobi. And as per usual practice, we were prepared to look for our greeter somewhere once inside the airport. The plane landed on the tarmac, the standard landing procedures followed with stairs being rolled in place for passengers to exit the plane. The door was then opened by the flight crew.
And there standing right at the airplane door on the top of the stairs holding a placard with our names, with a beautiful smile, was our lovely greeter. She led us down the stairs to a private car waiting for us that took us straight to the airport building, where she then escorted us smoothly through customs and baggage claim. Wishing us a “safe and happy journey onward,” she passed us seamlessly into the hands of our safari representative who was waiting to whisk us off to our hotel.
You remember what it’s like when you’ve just traveled on a long flight…you’re tired, maybe wanting some real food and a hot shower or a long indulging bath…the idea of waiting in lines and navigating the formalities and procedures in a foreign country just don’t seem so appealing at that moment. So, it was beyond appreciated to have this outstanding service that Ker & Downey Africa provided for us right from the start. And they continued to surprise and delight us throughout our entire adventure. A BIG thank you for planning our amazing first safari (and our second, which I will write about another time)!
And then, there’s another arrival that was definitely an amazing first…boarding our teeny tiny little plane with just the two of us and the pilot, on our way to our first safari lodge. And landing in what seemed like the middle of a never-before-seen beautiful nowhere. No tarmac, just a makeshift “runway” on the ground bordered by rocks to mark a landing strip. No buildings or check-ins or masses of people…just our guide and his safari jeep waiting for the two of us. There just is no comparison.
The animals and the great migration
When I first saw the animals so up close and wandering freely, I was literally giddy! On a sharp intake of breath, my hands would fly to my mouth. Or I kept saying things like:
“Oh, you are so beautiful!”
“Oh my, you are fierce!”
“Look at those eyelashes, wish I had those!” Yes, I said that when I saw the giraffes.
And after a while, you start having conversations with them (at least I did):
“Well, hi there, are you enjoying those branches you’re chewing on?”
“Looks like you had a tiring day.”
“Stop looking at me like I’m a tasty morsel.” There was definitely one lion who had that look in his eye.
As we started the safari, I definitely had my favourites that I just couldn’t wait to see: elephants (especially baby elephants), giraffes and zebras, all which I happily saw in abundance and just never got tired of. Of course, I soon discovered that there were so many animals that I hadn’t seen before or even knew about. I will forever be grateful that being on safari literally opened my eyes to a whole new world of wildlife: gazelle, eland, oryx, impala, ostrich, hippopotamus, hyena, black-backed jackal, warthog, dik-dik, cheetah, baboon, vulture, African Wild Dog, Bushbaby, alligator, and many more, not to mention the many different types of beautiful birds. We also saw the Big Five, the must-see list of wildlife of an African safari: African or water buffalo, elephants, lions, leopards, and rhinoceros. Yes, they are Big! And they are Magnificent!
And the icing on the cake was being able to witness the Great Migration! In fact, one of the key reasons we chose Kenya as our first safari destination was with the hope that we would get to see this amazing, one-of-a-kind expedition. A simple definition to give you an idea of what this truly unique wonder is: it is the movement of over a million wildebeests that travel from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya and back again; primarily in their search for water and food. Along the way, the wildebeests may be prey for lions, leopards, cheetahs, or alligators when they attempt to cross rivers along this treacherous journey. In order to see this incredible migration, the timing has to be right (which is why we went in August/September), and even then, there is no guarantee that you will actually get to witness it.
But luck was on our side and I guess it was meant to be! Not only did we drive alongside the herds of wildebeests, but we also were fortunate to experience the huge numbers of them crossing a river. What a truly astonishing experience! To see so many of them gathered at the bank of a river is a unique sight in itself. We waited in anticipation to see which of one of the brave souls in the huge crowd would take the first step to venture across the water. A hush fell over us onlookers as that first step was finally taken.
Once this happened, it was as if a silent signal went out to the herds to charge forward…and an avalanche erupted. At times I had to look away as the momentum of the herds was unstoppable and many were pushed and trampled upon, falling into the river…and into the waiting mouths of the alligators that were idly floating nearby, primed for just that opportunity. Not to mention the vultures circling close by anticipating their turn. The smell of death was all around us. But this was balanced out by the triumph we felt for the ones that made it across.
I now understood the “wild” in wildlife. Seeing the wildebeests’ harsh crossing, or a cheetah dragging its kill, or an elephant taking down a huge tree like it was a toothpick showed me the power of these amazing animals. Even when a zebra looked at me calmly, as if to say, “Oh, just another human…,” or an elephant dismissed me after sparing a glance or giving a roaring trumpet, I was reminded that this is their home, the land belongs to them. I will always respect that. And I am grateful that I was allowed to be part of it for a brief moment in time.
The many ways to safari
I was so pleased and thrilled to experience the many different ways to safari: game drives, walking, horseback riding, hot air balloon ride, the hide, the waterhole, and I’m sure there are others (such as via boating, which I hope to do in the future in the Okavango Delta). And each is equally fun and adventurous, all while giving you a wonderful and unique way to see the animals and experience the fantastic scenery!
Game drivesI would say this is probably the most common way to safari. I absolutely LOVED the safari vehicles: open air 4x4 Land Cruisers offering unobstructed views, giving you that ultimate safari feel…you know, wind whipping through your hair while you wear your big trendy sunglasses, maybe with a snazzy scarf wrapped seemingly nonchalantly around your neck. Yes, work it! But…you have to watch out for the dust and the body-jarring bumps that are part of the whole experience! The bonus is that you can travel far and deep - and quickly - into the key areas where animals are in their natural habitat. And you can get quite close to them, with the assurance that you can move away quickly if an animal is not so happy to have you there - at least, that’s what I was told. Glad we never had to test that theory!
WalkingYou remember at the beginning when I said that sometimes you feel a bit of fear and apprehension when you try something new…well, that’s what I felt when we started the walking safari. I suppose I should’ve felt some sort of relief that we were being accompanied by an additional guide who knew the land like the back of his hand. And was carrying a rifle…you know, “just in case”. You’d think that would make me feel better but all I could think was: “just in case of what??” And may I stress again - a rifle - I’d never even seen one before! But, of course, it all worked out. We didn’t get as close to the animals (which was just fine with me) and it was a lovely way to explore the land on foot and see the wildlife from a distance.
The other walking safari experience I want to mention was our walk through the lava tubes. Yes, they’re exactly what it sounds like – tubes or caves formed by previous volcanic eruptions. We were told that the passageways can go on for miles. Our guide, James, told us that once they walked for two hours and had to turn back because they feared they would be lost in them! Also, if you’re somewhat claustrophobic…probably not the best outing for you. There was lots of ducking down into tight spaces, climbing down into narrow gaps, and navigating through some dark areas – we actually had to wear head lamps strapped around our foreheads (I still made that look good…at least I like to think so). Adding to this adventure was the knowledge that a leopard used some of the caves as a home base – hence, once again the need for our extra guide with the rifle. No sightings of said leopard, which I was totally okay with!
Horseback ridingNow, this was quite the first! I initially said no to this as I hadn’t been on a horse before. But the guides were so convincing and won me over. (My husband, of course, was raring to go!). I was assured that I would be given the gentlest of horses. And more importantly, that being on horseback would make other animals see us as one of them, so that they come even closer. True to their word, soon after we rode out, a group of giraffes gathered near to check us out. And by far, one of my favourite experiences was coming so close to the baby giraffe among them.
The HideI discovered that some lodges feature a hide, where you can, um, well…hide, and may I add quite comfortably and leisurely, to watch the animals. Usually, it’s a structure or building, often close to a waterhole so that you have front-row seating to see wildlife gather, drink and hang out. So, we grabbed our own drinks to go hang out with them. The Hide at Ol Donyo Lodge is an amazing creation in itself – made of huge logs assembled into a beautiful yet functional structure. An hour or two went by without us even noticing. We were so caught up in the life of the wild: the pecking order of who gets to drink first (you guessed it - elephants); giraffes dipping down from their lofty heights to lap gently at the water; elephants settling a quarrel by butting their heads…and on it went. It was hard to tear ourselves away. And it was a wonderful way to get some amazing photos!
Hot air balloon rideThis is truly a must-do! There is something so magical about the whole experience. It starts right when you arrive at the launch site. The stars are still twinkling in the pre-morning darkness. Soon you see a few balls of flame that seem to pop out of nowhere, bright beacons beckoning you to come and see. As you get closer, you realize it’s the fire of the burners that are going to power the humungous balloons spread flat on the ground. And when they fill and stand proudly in the air, they are spectacular!
Once the captain gives the go-ahead, we are set loose and off we go. I thought I would feel that funny feeling in my stomach, you know, when you go up or down too fast. But this was more like a soft and easy glide, as if you were floating. The ground falls gently below you just as dawn is rising around you. I was mesmerized by the beauty of the Mara plains spreading out in all directions. And then, speechless, to see the sunrise that welcomed us. If I close my eyes right now, I can still see the glorious hues that slowly unfolded turning everything into a soft pink, then a warm amber and finally a vibrant orange. Just beautiful.
The captain then drew our attention to the activity transpiring below: animals venturing out for their morning meal, some getting a slower start, while the younger ones played around, and others looking up at us curiously. A usual morning in the wild.
And our not-so-usual and amazing morning ended with a wonderful champagne bush breakfast, which was all set-up and waiting for us when we landed. A fitting and delightful way to mark this absolutely wonderful experience.
Sundowners – which I really think should be called "Sunwowzers"Cheers to the practice of sundowners which I think are a fantastic and fitting fixture of the safari experience. Towards the end of the day, our guide would drive us to a beautiful and ideal spot to view the sunset. With your favourite beverage in hand and some tasty goodies to nibble on, I’m sure you can imagine it was a wonderful way to enjoy a spectacular sunset while chatting about the day’s activities. I, of course, loved all of this.
But, for me, the true highlight was sitting with our guide, James, and being able to share parts of our lives with each other. We spoke of our dreams, our hopes, our goals, and I loved learning about his family, his Boma, his traditions, and his journey of becoming a guide. Truly, it is these heartfelt connections with such wonderful people that made this trip so unique for me. And I will always cherish these lovely memories. Now do you see why I think they should be called “Sunwowzers”?
The Whole Safari Experience
There is so much about the entire safari experience that is unique and special and luxurious (yes, luxury is alive in the wild!). From the amazing food, whether we had this in the stylish lodges and tents or on picnics or by fireside, to the lavish rooms and villas, to awe-inspiring views, to sleeping under the stars, there was no end to the delights we enjoyed. I could go on about all of this forever, but sometimes, pictures are worth a thousand words. Here are some which I hope will give you a sense of what I’m talking about…
As I reflect on these pictures and words, I keep wondering if I’ve been able to convey how unique this trip was. It truly was like no other. I realize what might be missing in my description is that the experience just has to be felt. My husband and I always say that Africa has a special place in our hearts and has become a part of us. We now understand and deeply feel the words below that were so beautifully displayed at Ol Donyo Lodge…
"All I wanted to do now was to get back to Africa. We had not left it yet, but when I would wake in the night I would lie, listening, homesick for it already" - E. Hemingway 1936
I want to end by thanking all the wonderful guides and staff that we met along the way who made our trip so wonderful. Our sincere thanks to Thomas, James, Sean, Amy, Daniel, John, Boniface, Azei, Josephat and to all the wonderful people at Ol Donyo Lodge, Kenya and Angama Safari Camp, Kenya. And a big thank you again to Ker & Downey Africa for organizing our wonderful “Lux-Venture,” and for creating a lovely video capturing some of the highlights from our trip.